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Writer's picturePedro Nunes

Mom, we're going to a bullfight!


When my dad was a kid he used to spend holidays here at my aunts house. One time they went to the theater together and saw a play. It was about Terceira, this island we're in. It was a satire, like most Portuguese humor historically is, and one of the things they were depicting there was the bullfighting.


It's important to note that the bullfighting here is different. Different than in Spain, or even in Portugal (mainland as well as other Azorean islands). Philosophically it's different, and so is everything else about it, really. Instead of happening at an arena, it happens on the street. Instead of processional bullfighters, they leave it up to the people, and instead of hurting or killing the bull, they release it back to the fields...


More interesting than that play then, is the actual bullfighting event. My dad has been coming to the bullfights since he was my age, and so has his dad, and his dad's dad, and so on... and one day I'll bring my kid to one too! Still, one thing stuck on my dad's head from that theater play that night ~30 years ago.


"Um par the cornos e uma garrafa de cerveja, é o povo da Terceira!"


This translates to something like: 'A pair of horns and a bottle of beer, it's the people of Terceira!' You have to see it..!


"Ah the bull is going wild he wants to run over the people!"


"Look grandpa is still outside... he wants to play with the bull! Ah the bull is going fast... Run grandpa!"

There are 4 bulls. The white marks on the streets outline the limits of the bullfight. The shepherds dressed in white work to keep things fun and safe and show people a good time. The blue boxes are called 'coffins' and it's where they bring the bulls in. When the bull is about to leave the box, they throw a skyrocket, and 2 when the bull goes back in. In the meanwhile... it's a festival of the people, where eating, drinking and comradery are the important thing - what they call the 5th bull.


I had the time of my life and played bullfighting for days on end! Something truly unique to Terceira, and now to me!


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